Southern fruits have always been northern luxuries, and the dainty and exotic lychee, cultivated in southern China since 1700 BC, has quite a history. Stories of the extravagant favorite concubine of an emperor of the Tang dynasty (AD 618-906) tell of relays of exhausted horsemen bringing fresh lychees packed in ice from the South to Changan (now Xian), the capital, to indulge her passion for them.