Simmered Snapper, Autumn Rain Style

Rinse the fish pieces under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. With a sharp knife, make several shallow decorative slashes (kazari-bocho) in the skin side of each piece. This will ensure even and thorough cooking and prevent the fish skin from tearing and shrinking in an unattractive manner.

Peel the ginger and reserve the peels. Cut the peeled ginger into thin slices, stack the slices, and cut into fine threads. Soak the ginger threads in cold water for a few minutes to mellow their sharpness and make them crisp. Drain and gently squeeze out excess moisture. Set aside the peels and the threads separately.

To make the poaching liquid, lay the kombu in a shallow pan or skillet large enough to hold the fish pieces in a single layer. The kombu will enhance and meld flavors and prevent the fish from sticking to the pan. Add the saké, water, and the reserved ginger peels and bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat to a steady but gentle simmer.

Lay the fish pieces, skin side up, in the pan, each on its own piece of kombu. Poach, spooning liquid over the fish frequently, for 2 minutes, or until the decorative slashes are clearly defined (the skin shrinks, exposing the flesh) and the edges turn opaque. Skim away any froth and remove and discard the ginger peels.

Add the simmering liquid ingredients - the soy sauce, mirin, and sugar - and top with an otoshi-buta. Or improvise a dropped lid with a double thickness of cooking parchment, cut in a circle 1 inch smaller in diameter than your pan and weighted down with a small, flat lid from another pot. This will keep the fish moist and ensure even coloration. Simmer the fish for 6 to 7 minutes. If the fish looks in danger of scorching during the simmering, add a few drops of either saké or water, or a mixture of the two. To test for doneness, press the fish lightly with fingertips or a spatula at the spot where the flesh is thickest; it should feel fairly firm. Ideally, you will be left with about 3 tablespoons glossy liquid and the fish will have become richly colored.

Carefully slip a broad spatula under a piece of fish one at a time, bringing along a base of kombu (the kelp is entirely edible) with it. Place the fish on an individual plate with the thicker portion (the part nearer the head when the fish was alive) set to the left, with the belly forward. If the sauce in the pan seems loose and you would prefer a sauce that clings a bit to the fish, add the cornstarch paste to it and cook over high heat, stirring constantly, until it thickens. Serve the fish piping hot or at room temperature, with the sauce spooned over it. Garnish with the ginger threads.