Boujemaa Mars, chef at the Moroccan restaurant in Marrakech's celebrated La Mamounia hotel, turns out inventions like seafood bestila and sea bass stuffed with dates, but his classical cooking, like this lamb specialty (he uses baby lamb shoulder; we've substituted shanks), is gutsy and authentic. Mhammar is Arabic for ''reddened'' i.e., browned, which these lamb shanks become after long, slow braising.
