Fish Cakes with Pickled Cucumber Relish

FOR RELISH: In a saucepan over medium heat, combine the vinegar, sugar, salt and water. Bring to a simmer, stirring to dissolve the sugar and salt. Remove from the heat and let cool.

Peel the cucumber and cut in half lengthwise. Cut crosswise into very thin slices and place in a bowl. Add the shallot, chili, dried shrimp powder (if using) and cilantro and stir to mix well. Pour the vinegar dressing over the cucumber mixture and set aside. Just before serving, sprinkle the peanuts on top.

FOR FISH CAKES: If using fillets, cut the fish into 1-inch cubes and place in a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Process until a fairly smooth paste forms. Transfer to a large bowl. If using whitefish paste, simply place in the bowl. Add the fish sauce, chili paste or curry paste, egg, salt, cornstarch, green beans and cilantro. Stir to mix well.

Moisten your hands with water and form the mixture into about 24 cakes each about 2 inches in diameter and 1/2 inch thick. As the cakes are formed, set them on an oiled baking sheet.

In a frying pan over medium-high heat, pour in oil to a depth of 1 inch and heat to 375 degrees on a deep-frying thermometer. Using an oiled slotted spatula, lower a few fish cakes into the oil and fry, turning once, until golden brown and crisp, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer to paper towels to drain. Place on a platter and keep warm while frying the remaining fish cakes.

TO SERVE: Divide the cucumber relish among individual dipping saucers. Arrange 3 or 4 cakes on each serving plate and place a saucer of the cucumber relish alongside. Serve warm.