This version of the popular individual warm chocolate cakes is the result of ideas gleaned from pastry chefs from coast to coast. To ensure that the fudgy centers are runny, time the preparation of the cakes so they can be served hot from the oven. Or bake them up to a day ahead, cool, cover, and store at room temperature; reheat uncovered in a 350 degrees F oven for about 10 minutes or in a microwave oven at full power for about 25 seconds, being careful not to cook the cakes further when reheating. Tissue-thin sheets of gold leaf make a luxurios garnish and reinforce the suggestion of the following molten lava from the little mounds of cake. The inert metal is edible and may be purchased at art-supply stores and some cake decorating supply stores.