Red Curry Mussels over Noodles

Fill a large pot three-fourths full with water, bring to a boil and salt it liberally. Gently pull the strands of noodles apart, then drop them into the boiling water, stirring to separate the strands. Bring to a second boil and cook for 1 minute longer. Pour the noodles into a colander and rinse thoroughly with cold running water. Drain well and transfer to a large bowl.

Do not shake the cans of coconut milk before opening. There should be a thick layer of cream on the top of each. Spoon off 1/2 cup of the thick cream from the top of each can and place in a wok or heavy pot. Place over medium-high heat and stir until the cream becomes oily and aromatic, about 3 minutes. Add the red curry paste and simmer over medium heat, stirring frequently, until the sharp fragrances mellow, about 3 minutes. Add the palm or brown sugar, fish sauce and the remaining coconut milk; stir well and simmer for 5 minutes longer.

Meanwhile, scrub and debeard the mussels under cold running water. Discard any mussels that do not close to the touch. Bring the coconut milk sauce to a boil and add the mussels, lime or citrus leaves, basil and chilies. Cover and cook, shaking the pan occasionally, until the shells open, about 2 minutes.

Meanwhile, refill the large pot three-fourths full with water and bring to a boil. Drop the reserved noodles into the water for a few seconds to reheat, then drain and divide the noodles among 6 warmed soup bowls.

Ladle the mussels and sauce over the noodles, discarding any mussels that did not open. Garnish with cilantro sprigs and serve hot.