Red Curry Paste

Cut the chilies in half crosswise, then shake out and discard the seeds. In a small bowl, combine the chilies with warm water to cover. In another small bowl, combine the dried lime rind and dried galangal, if using, and cover with warm water; let soak until soft and pliable, about 30 minutes. Drain the galangal and lime rind, chop them and set aside. Cut the lemongrass crosswise into thin slices; set aside.

If using whole coriander and cumin seeds, toast them in a small, dry frying pan over medium heat, shaking the pan occasionally, until fragrant, about 3 minutes. Let cool and transfer the seeds and whole peppercorns, if using, to a spice grinder or mortar; grind or pulverize with a pestle to a fine powder. Combine the ground spices with the salt and paprika and set aside.

Drain the chilies, reserving about 1/4 cup (2 fl oz/60 ml) of the soaking liquid, and place the chilies and soaking liquid in a blender or mini food processor. Add the reconstituted or fresh galangal, lime rind or fresh lime zest, lemongrass, garlic, shallots, cilantro roots or stems, shrimp or anchovy paste and reserved dry spices. Process into as smooth a paste as possible, about 30 seconds. If the mixture remains coarse, transfer it to a mortar and mash with a pestle until smooth.