Tossed Rice Cakes

TO MAKE THE RICE: In a high-sided stewpan (tinned copper, if possible), fry the onion in 2 tablespoons butter over medium heat until golden. Add the rice, stirring with a wooden spoon until it has absorbed the butter completely. Pour in the wine and stir until it has evaporated. Add the stock, a ladleful at a time, stirring often so that the rice does not stick to the bottom of the pan. The heat should be moderately high only. Add the saffron after 6 minutes. After 7 or 8 minutes remove the risotto from the heat and stir in the remaining butter and the Parmesan and quickly spread the rice out on a platter so that it cools quickly to ensure that it does not over cook.

TO MAKE THE RICE CAKES: Lightly butter a 10 in cast-iron or nonstick skillet and set over moderate heat. Place about 3 tablespoons of the rice in the center, press into an even pancake to cover the base of the pan and cook until golden and crispy. The skilled cook will be able to turn the rice cake over by tossing it in the pan, but it can also be turned by sliding it onto a plate and putting it back to cook the other side. Keep the cooked ones warm until all are done, then serve immediately, seasoned with pepper.