The origin of the potaje goes all the way back to the invention of pottery and cooking in a moist medium. The Roman cook Celio Apicio, probably of Andalusian origin, recorded some recipes which could be precursors to modern potajes. From the fourth century onward potajes were a traditional meal during Lent, usually mixing some kind of pulse with vegetables and sometimes other ingredients too. Salt cod used to be included but was given up as a symbol of penitence. A variety of potajes is described by Ruperto de Nola in Libro de Guisados (1520), Diego Granada in Libro del Arte de Cocina (1599), Francisco Martinez Montino in Arte de Cocina, Pasteleria, Vizcocheria y Conserveria (1611) and Juan de Altamiras in Nuevo Arte de Cocina (1745). The exquisite chickpea hotpot is still very popular in Madrid.
