Cannelloni

Make the basic pasta dough, if using. Cover with a bowl to prevent drying and set aside.

FOR FILLING: In a small frying pan over medium heat, warm the oil. Add the onion and sauté until almost translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the pork or veal and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes; do not allow to brown. Transfer to a colander to drain and let cool.

In a bowl, combine the cooled meat mixture, mortadella, prosciutto and ricotta and Parmesan cheeses and mix well. Season to taste with salt, white pepper and nutmeg. Set aside.

Roll out the basic pasta dough, if using, 1/16 inch thick. Cut the fresh or purchased sheets into eight 4 1/2-inch squares. Set aside.

FOR SAUCE: In a saucepan over low heat, melt the butter. Whisk in the flour until blended, then gradually add the hot milk, whisking constantly. Simmer, whisking constantly and scraping the sides and bottom of the pan with a spatula as necessary to avoid burning, until the raw flour flavor dissipates, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and season to taste with salt, white pepper and nutmeg.

Fill a deep pot three-fourths full with salted water and bring to a boil. Add the pasta all at once and stir gently to prevent sticking. Cook until not yet al dente, about 2 minutes. Drain, then plunge into ice water to halt the cooking. Drain again and lay flat in a single layer on kitchen towels to dry briefly.

Preheat an oven to 450 degrees. Select a 9-by-12-inch baking dish. Spread 1 cup of the white sauce over the bottom of the baking dish. To make the cannelloni, form about 1/3 cup of the filling into a log shape on the center of each pasta square and roll up into a cylinder. Place the rolls, seam side down, in a single layer in the dish. Evenly spread the remaining white sauce over the top. Sprinkle evenly with the cheese.

Place in the center of the oven and immediately reduce the heat to 400 degrees. Bake until bubbling and golden brown on top, 30-35 minutes. Remove from oven and let stand for 5 minutes before serving.

TO SERVE: Using a spatula, carefully transfer the cannelloni to warmed individual plates. Serve immediately.