Like saucisson-beurre (sliced sausage with bread and butter) and radishes with salt, celeriac (celery root) remoulade was an archetypal hor d'oeuvre in restaurants popular with the ordinary people during the 1930s. It is a delicious way of eating this rather unpromising tuber, which generally used to be destined for the soup pot. When the French spoke of crudites it meant for most of them the inseparable pairing of celeriac remoulade with grated carrots in a vinaigrette sauce. It took the recent changes in taste and cooking methods to develop the range of vegetables that nowadays can be served raw.
