Radical as chicken chili may seem, a chili that is completely meatless may appear even more so. And yet, there is a traditional chili flavor profile, one composed of the essential flavorings of onion, garlic, ground red chiles, cumin and oregano that is instantly identifiable. Season winter squash, mushrooms and, above all, beans, with that pungent mixture, and no one who has ever had chili will doubt that this is the real thing. It's not a mild, wimpy, chili, either. Serve it with a dollop of cooling yogurt atop each portion, to mellow the heat. A warm crusty baguette and crisp mixed baby green salad complements this chili. Pour a full-bodied white wine.
