Mu Shu Duck

If you are making homemade pancakes, prepare them in advance and keep warm.

Place the lily buds and mushrooms in separate small bowls. Add warm water to cover to each bowl and let stand until soft and pliable, about 10 minutes. Drain both bowls. Pinch off and discard the hard tips from the lily buds; set aside. Pinch off and discard the hard centers from the mushrooms. Tightly roll up each mushroom, then cut crosswise into thin slivers. Set the lily buds and mushrooms aside.

Cut the breast meat from the duck bones and discard the bones. Using a paper towel, pat the excess grease from the breast. Cut the breast with the skin into julienned strips about 3/8 inch wide. Set aside.

Place a wok over medium-high heat. When it is hot, add 1 tablespoon of the oil. When the oil is hot, add the eggs and stir to scramble. Cook, stirring, until soft-cooked, 1-2 minutes. Transfer the eggs to a plate, break them up into small morsels and set aside.

Add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil to the wok. When the oil is hot, add the salt, ginger, carrot, cabbage and the reserved lily buds and wood ear mushrooms; stir-fry until the cabbage begins to wilt, about 2 minutes. Add the sugar, white pepper, rice wine or sherry, soy sauce and reserved duck strips; stir-fry until fragrant and thoroughly mixed, about 1 minute. Stir in the sesame oil, then gently fold in the eggs. Transfer the mixture to a warmed platter. Top with the green onions and cilantro leaves.

TO SERVE: Place the hoisin sauce in a small serving saucer. Set out the steamer basket or plate of pancakes or a plate of spring roll wrappers.

TO EAT: Smear 1-2 teaspoons hoisin sauce across the middle of a pancake. Spread 2-3 tablespoons filling over the sauce. Fold two opposite sides over and the bottom edge up to contain the filling and eat out of hand.