Backyard barbecues are right up there with apple pie as an American icon. Now, I sure don't want to be a spoilsport, but when it comes to cooking one of today's leaner beef steaks, barbecuing, in my opinion, is not necessarily the best way. I prefer to use a cast-iron skillet, and I like to make simple sauces to accompany steaks right in the same skillet. Stir a bit of booze and a touch of imagination into whatever is left in the pan; the process is called deglazing, and it only takes a moment. A well-marbled porterhouse steak cooked this way and served with a simple tomato and onion salad is soul food for this country boy!