Cooks on both the Italian and French Rivieras, from Liguria up through Provence, often combine the sweetness of sautéed onions and full-flavored tomatoes with the sharp bite of anchovy and brine-cured olives. Some food historians contend that the famed savory Provencal tart, la pissaladiere, originally comes from the Italian pizza all’Andrea, named for the renowned naval officer, Andrea Doria.