Spaghetti with Escarole and Bacon

FOR BACON: In a large deep frying pan, cook the bacon over moderate heat until crisp. Remove the bacon with a slotted spoon. Pour off all the fat from the pan.

FOR ESCAROLE: In the same pan, heat the oil over moderately low heat. Add the garlic, red-pepper flakes, and anchovy paste and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in the escarole, a little at a time, until wilted, about 3 minutes. Add the broth and 1/4 teaspoon of the salt and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat and cook, covered, for 5 minutes.

FOR PASTA: Meanwhile, in a large pot of boiling, salted water, cook the spaghetti until just done, about 12 minutes.

TO SERVE: Drain the pasta; add it to the pan with the escarole. Stir in the remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt, the Parmesan, bacon, and butter.

Variations:

• Stir in a cup of drained canned cannellini beans when you add the broth in Step 2.

• Add two tablespoons of chopped fresh basil just before serving.

WINE RECOMMENDATION: Italian white wines were made for dishes like this one. Soave, Orvieto, Frascati--all are based on the trebbiano grape and have the crisp, neutral, refreshing taste and light body that allow the pasta to take center stage.