Stuffed Squid

To clean each squid, grip the head and pull it and the attached innards gently but firmly from the body. Using your fingertips, squeeze out the small, round beak from the mouth at the base of the tentacles. Using a sharp knife, cut away the eyes, reserving the tentacles. Using your fingers, clean out the body pouch under running water, being careful not to tear it. Remove and discard the transparent quill-like cartilage from along one side of the pouch. Rub off the filmy brownish skin from the body and rinse the tentacles and body well. Chop the tentacles and set the bodies and tentacles aside. Preheat a broiler or prepare a fire in a charcoal grill.

FOR FILLING: In a sauté pan over medium heat, warm the olive oil. Add the onion and sauté until tender, 8-10 minutes.

Add the garlic, ham (if using), chopped tentacles and enough of the bread crumbs to bind the mixture together. Sauté over medium heat for 2 minutes. Stir in the lemon juice and parsley and season to taste with salt and pepper. Let cool.

Carefully stuff the bread crumb mixture into the squid bodies and skewer the ends closed with toothpicks. Thread the squid crosswise onto long metal skewers. Brush them with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Place on a broiler pan or a grill rack and broil or grill, turning once, until the squid are tender and opaque, about 3 minutes per side.

FOR DRESSING: In a small bowl, whisk together the virgin olive oil, lemon juice and oregano.

Slide the squid off the skewers onto a warmed platter, drizzle the dressing evenly over the top and serve hot.